Antioxidants and vitamins

Antioxidants

The antioxidants used in cosmetics are derived from certain vitamins, mainly A, C and E, which form part of the body's natural defence and balance system. Antioxidants are thought to protect the skin by attaching themselves to free radicals, minimising the harm they do to the skin. These additives may help the skin repair systems, but hard scientific evidence for this is limited.

D-Panthenol

This substance is readily converted into vitamin B5, which has been shown to help the skin to repair damage.

Vitamin E

This is commonly included in cosmetics. It may help to reduce the effects of free radicals formed from sun damage.

Pro-vitamin A

This is another antioxidant that may help to reduce the effects of free radicals.

Retinyl proprionate

This is a unique form of Vitamin A (retinol). It is considered a Vitamin A ester and is part of a class of compounds known as retinoids. Applied to the skin's surface, it works to improve the appearance of sun-damaged skin by reducing the look of fine lines and wrinkles, skin roughness and appearance of blotchiness (age spots). It is a larger molecule than retinol, which is often times regarded as the pure form of Vitamin A.

Niacinamide

Also known as vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin found in the body. When applied topically to the skin, this vitamin helps exfoliate surface skin cells to reveal, newer, younger looking skin and enhances barrier repair.

Hyaluronic acid

As we have seen (The Dermis), this natural moisturizer forms part of the tissue that , surrounds the collagen and elastin fibres.

As we age, we produce less hyaluronic acid in our skin, which becomes less resilient and pliable. Hyaluronic acid is often added to moisturizers, and can be injected by doctors into the skin.

Ceramides

These are lipids that help to prevent moisture loss through the skin. They assist the skin in its function as an efficient barrier.

Retinoic acid

This is a derivative of vitamin A which was originally prescribed in high doses for the treatment of acne. It does refine the skin, increase collagen production and reduce wrinkles, but it can have unpleasant side-effects such as extreme sensitivity to sunlight, with increased reddening of the skin and peeling. It is available on prescription from a dermatologist for severe sun damage. Well-formulated cosmetics may contain moderate and harmless amounts of retinoic acid derivatives, which at these levels have some hydrating effects.

Liposomes

Liposomes are tiny, hollow spheres of lipids (fats), which are filled with active ingredients. They are designed as a transportation system to carry these ingredients to the places where the skin needs them. Liposome spheres are smaller than skin cells, therefore ingredients held inside them can be delivered with great accuracy into the skin and released precisely as needed.

Nanospheres

These are smaller versions of liposomes. Because of their smaller size, they are supposed to penetrate deeper into the skin.

SKIN MYTH

Many cosmetic creams have an anti-aging effect because they contain the proteins collagen and/or elastin.

Fact: Collagen forms fibres in the dermis which give the skin structural support, provide strength, and allow the skin to stretch and contract. Elastin is the protein that binds the collagen bundles together. Despite the name, we do not know whether elastin is actually responsible for the skin's elasticity.

When applied to the skin, these creams do not have much effect on the changes in appearance due to natural aging. They do have humectant properties, however, plumping out the skin with retained moisture.

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