Breakthroughs XVI
SCIENCE NEWS FROM P&G BEAUTY VOL. XVI 2008
Electrophotography Visualizes the Benefits of Liquid Crystal Technology
The process of hair coloring significantly changes the surface of hair fiber. Color-treated hair is rougher and more hydrophilic, attracting water that can leach out pigments. New shampoos and conditioners are designed to preserve hair color function by working with this surface activity of colored hair. Electrophotography now allows P&G Beauty researchers to visually capture changes in hair surface properties resulting from their newest color preservation technology - Liquid Crystals.
Electrophotography uses high voltage to visualize electrons discharging from objects. The discharge of the electrons depends on the hair roughness and surface charge. A smooth object has few obstructions to the electron flow, allowing the electrons to travel along hair smoothly. The rougher the object surface is, the more the electron discharge pattern changes, leading to stronger light effects. Visualizing hair with electrophotography reveals remarkable differences depending on how hair was treated. Non-colored hair showed relatively low levels of electron discharges (characterized by blue light effects on film). However, with colored hair, the researchers found strong electron discharges and intense light effects at the center of the hair strands (characterized by purple light effects on film), likely caused by high friction of the rough hair surface and its higher surface energy.
One interesting finding by P&G Beauty scientists is that the surface energy of hair varies according to the hair color used - blonde coloring formulas result in higher surface energy than brunette coloring formulas. Importantly, this higher surface energy not only causes color fade but also prevents hydrophobic conditioning ingredients from binding to the hair. These insights have allowed P&G Beauty scientists to tailor the benefits of care and conditioning ingredients to the specific needs of different shades of colored hair.
To help normalize the surface energy and friction of color-treated hair, P&G Beauty scientists have developed new hair care formulations utilizing Liquid Crystal Technology. Liquid Crystals are comprised of polymer layers sandwiched between surfactant bilayers. In shampoo, crystals bind to damaged hair and modify surface activity allowing the shampoo to more effectively bind the care and conditioning ingredients to the hair strand. Applying this smart technology, conditioning ingredients can be tailored to the specific hair color. For example, lighter, blonde-colored hair has a higher surface energy and therefore needs higher levels of care and conditioning ingredients.
Electrophotography shows the result: less blue light in the electrophotography image means less friction for the electrons and improved surface properties.
"Using electrophotography to visualize the benefits of our new Liquid Crystal Technology is very exciting as it allows us to show, in an image, what consumers tell us about how their hair feels and looks when using our products," says Rene Rust, PhD, Senior Scientist with P&G Beauty. "For consumers, this means hair color that is truly striking for longer."
Fixating on Age Spots
New research shows that hyperpigmented spots, also known as age spots, not only add years to a person's perceived age, but can also draw the gaze of friends and colleagues, distracting them from focusing on more important facial features such as the eyes and mouth.
Hyperpigmented facial lesions, such as lentigines, are closely associated with both chronological and photo-induced aging of the skin. DNA damage and reduced ability to self repair result in pockets of malfunctioning pigment-producing cells, melanocytes, causing areas and spots of darkened skin. Previous research (Matts, Fink et al) has shown that inconsistent pigmentation results in up to 10 years of added perceived age. With that knowledge, P&G Beauty researchers are now studying how age spots contribute to changes in appearance perception.
In this study, eye-tracker technology was used to assess the noticeability and gaze patterns associated with age spots.
Eye-tracking technology reflects near infrared light off observers' corneas to follow eye movements as they respond to visual stimuli-in this case facial images with and without hyperpigmented spots. Each of 27 judges were shown 6 pairs of images (6 with and 6 without spots) in identical random order. Frequency maps of gaze patterns were captured and analyzed using statistical software.
The results showed that 30% of judges fixated on facial regions containing age spots vs. less than 5% viewing the same region without spots. "This represented a significant distraction of gaze from the T-zones (eyes, nose, mouth) which may be more critical to the perception of physical characteristics and be an important factor in estimating someone's perceived attractiveness," said Joe Kaczvinsky, PhD, P&G Beauty Principal Scientist. "As such, improving the appearance of these lesions is a key clinical target for anti-aging skin care products."
Strangely Beautiful
The biological complexity of hair and skin presents a challenge when designing shaving systems. Reflected light micrographs of beard hair cross-sections, such as those shown here, reveal considerable variations in beard hair follicle shape and diameter within and between individuals. P&G Beauty scientists have devoted extensive research to improving the function and design of the razor blade to ensure a safe, comfortable and close shave, no matter the hair follicle shape or size.
Researchers have long understood that the microstructure of hair consists of three distinct zones: the cortex, the medulla and the cuticle, with the cortex constituting the bulk of the hair. These features are clearly visible in a number of the beard samples below. For example, in the neck sample from subject A, the cuticle layer can be seen as a thin, dark outer boundary; the cortex can be seen as a thick, gray region and the medulla as the inner dark region.
Researchers attribute a number of factors to hair follicle variations, including anatomical location, ethnicity, age and environmental factors.
Myths & Facts
Conditioners weigh down hair.
MYTH: New conditioner technologies utilize smaller silicone particles with different surface properties (more positive charges) that create a fine network of care and conditioning ingredients on the surface of damaged hair. The high affinity of these ingredients allows scientists to tailor the conditioning benefits more precisely to the needs of different hair types. Overall, the amount of silicones in new generation products is significantly reduced, but with more conditioning benefit.
Ammonia can damage hair even when present only in low levels.
FACT: All combinations of ammonia as well as MEA, another alkali, can damage hair because of their high pH levels. The damage, a function of peroxide, occurs from the chemicals formed when the mixed peroxide and alkali come in contact with the hair. The primary benefit of low ammonia is less odor.
Lab Notes
Multi-performace Index Measures Product's Ability To Provide Multiple Benefits
A well-recognized strategy to improve the appearance of aging skin is to simultaneously target multiple changes that occur during the aging process. In a survey of nearly 4,500 dermatologists from around the world, 9 out of 10 agreed that an effective anti-aging treatment should target 3 key factors: restoration of skin barrier function, enhancement of appearance by promoting exfoliation and protection against environmental damage.
P&G Beauty scientists recently developed the Multi-Performance Index (MPI), a tool that allows scientists to assess and rank product performance against these three factors. The top performing product for each factor is allotted a maximum index value of 33.33, with remaining products receiving a proportional allocation. The maximum possible total MPI score is 100. A superior topical anti-aging moisturizer, based on the MPI, would deliver a strong and balanced performance.
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A recent MPI study evaluated 7 moisturizing products containing common anti-aging ingredients. Formulas containing 3.5% niacinamide and vitamins C & E showed the strongest and most balanced all-around performance for restoring, enhancing and protecting. These results indicate the value of the MPI comparison. The products varied in effectiveness based on each individual factor and were holistically differentiated by MPI another way than they would have been considering any single factor alone.
In The Spotlight
Zerlina Dubois, Research Fellow & Perfumer
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P&G Beauty scientist, Zerlina Dubois, has dedicated her career to revolutionizing the perfume industry and her efforts were recently recognized following her appointment to the Board of Directors of The American Society of Perfumers. For decades, Dubois and her fellow P&G Beauty perfumers have utilized innovative technologies to develop sophisticated perfume formulations for use in P&G Beauty products.
Dubois was selected by her peers to the Board of Directors based on her significant contributions in the perfume industry. Founded in 1947, The American Society of Perfumers is a professional society of qualified perfumers whose goals are to encourage the art and science of perfumery practice around the world.
After graduating with a BS in Biochemistry from Smith College and an MS in Organic Chemistry from the University of Massachusetts, Dubois joined P&G Beauty in 1987. In addition to completing P&G's extensive internal perfumer training program, Dubois trained at the renowned Perfume School in Grasse, France.
During her career at P&G Beauty, Zerlina has helped design more than 30 P&G product fragrances, including fragrances for Pantene® and Head & Shoulders® haircare products, Olay® skincare products and Secret® antiperspirants and deodorants.
Fast Forward
CAD Helps Create Future Mascara Applicators
P&G Beauty's scientific leadership extends beyond product chemistry and mechanical engineering. As part of P&G Beauty's innovation in cosmetic applicator development, scientists recently began utilizing 3D Computer Aided Design (CAD) and high resolution rapid prototyping to facilitate a faster and more innovative mascara applicator design process.
Utilizing these technologies, P&G Beauty was able to screen through more than 50 new brush designs, both as 3D computer models and as brittle, life-sized prototypes that consumers could see on the end of mascara handles. Prior to this, only a few design drawings would have been considered, because building useable prototype brushes required an investment of 4-6 months and tens of thousands of dollars per design.
As the team iterated towards mature designs, they used an enhanced process that took only 5 days and a few hundred dollars to convert lead prototypes to soft, pliable brushes consumers could feel and evaluate. Look for this capability to result in innovative new brush designs that deliver a variety of lash looks in the future.
Resources
National Medal of Technology
http://uspto.gov/nmti/index.html
American Society of Perfumers
http://www.perfumers.org/index1205.html
Hair Structure Reference
http://www.pgbeautyscience.com/hair-structure.html
P&G Beauty Science
P&G Beauty Science has more than 1,800 scientists and technical employees working at 11 global technical centers with an unparalleled commitment to technology development. Company scientific efforts have resulted in over 3,500 active beauty care patents. This allows P&G to develop products uniquely suited for different types of hair and skin, and tailored to different cultures and climates.
P&G Beauty products help make beauty dreams real and grooming enjoyable every day for millions of women and men worldwide. With more than 100 brands available in nearly 130 countries, P&G Beauty delivered sales of more than $22 billion in fiscal year 2006/07, making it a leading global beauty company. P&G Beauty brands include: Pantene®, Olay®, Head & Shoulders®, Max Factor®, Cover Girl®, Rejoice®, Herbal Essences®, Koleston®, Clairol®, Gillette®, SK-II®, Wella®, Joy® by Jean Patou, Hugo Boss® and Lacoste®. (NYSE: PG)
CONTACT INFORMATION
To talk to a P&G scientist or to learn more about ongoing research at P&G Beauty, contact:
Heather Cunningham P&G Beauty Science 513-626-2606