Breakthroughs XI
SCIENCE NEWS FROM P&G BEAUTY VOL. XI 2007
NEW PATENTED TECHNOLOGY PRESERVES FRAGRANCE INTEGRITY AND LIFESPAN
The art of perfumery began in ancient Egypt, but was further refined by the Arabs and Romans. While the art continues to thrive today, it is science that is taking perfumery to the next level. Through innovative technology that utilizes a molecule known as cyclodextrin, P&G Beauty Prestige Products scientists have discovered a way to preserve the fresh initial scent of a fragrance and release it on the skin over a period of time, long after it is applied. This patented breakthrough significantly extends the scent experience for consumers and is a vehicle for perfumers to create a more linear perfume experience, which is not naturally available.
In traditional fragrances, top note oils, which produce fresh scents like citrus, are comprised of small molecules that evaporate quickly. In contrast, base note oils, such as musk and amber, contain larger molecules which evaporate more slowly due to their heavier nature. This variance has been a perennial constraint for perfumers until P&G Beauty Prestige Products scientists uncovered the slow-release properties of cyclodextrin, a molecule derived from renewable starch, and combined it with perfume oils to develop their patented time-release technology.
“The ongoing collaboration of engineers and perfumers at P&G Beauty Prestige Products made it possible to develop a technology that is infusing new life into an ancient art, effectively adding a whole new set of tools to the perfumer’s toolbox,” said Lynette Holland, MA and MEng, P&G Senior Scientist.
Cyclodextrin was first used in the pharma-ceutical industry for its ability to increase the bioavailability of certain drug compounds. As an extremely versatile carrier molecule, it has since found a wide range of applications, ranging from the preparation of cholesterol-free food products to detergents, dryer sheets and cosmetics.
The cyclodextrin molecule has a hydrophobic (water repelling) cavity and hydrophilic (water absorbing) shell (see graphic). When the fragrance is first applied, the cyclodextrin absorbs some of the fragrance. It then gradually absorbs moisture from its surroundings while at the same time releasing perfume from its core. This allows the appealing top notes of the fragrance to be released steadily over a period of several hours.
In order to release more top notes over time, time-release fragrances are mixed with a larger proportion of top note oils than traditional fragrances. Without the cyclodextrin-containing technology, these perfumes would smell distinctively over-fresh and unbalanced, but with the molecule, the perfumes’ top notes disperse more slowly and evenly.
In addition to improved preservation of the original character scent, time-release fragrances have the advantage of being reactivated when they are exposed to moisture, such as upon perspiration or breathing on the area of the skin where the fragrance is present. This feature of time-release fragrances can have benefits throughout the day, creating opportunities for a reminder of the fresh scent of the fragrance to come through.
“With the time-release technology, we’re revolutionizing the field of perfumery by offering so many opportunities to
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| Lynette Holland is Senior Scientist at P&G Beauty. |
formulate and re-establish classic fragrances,” said Will Andrews, BSc Hons, P&G Fragrance Scientist. “The idea of creating an all-day scent that combines fresh, complex and deep tones without losing the original appealing scent will have a great impact on the value of a fragrance to consumers.”
P&G Beauty Prestige Products has filed 12 patents in connection with the proprietary use of cyclodextrin in luxury fragrances, five of which have been granted to date. Additional research projects with further applications of cyclodextrin are being considered. With new formulations that include the time-release technology on the horizon, fragrances will soon have a whole new essence.
STUDY: PARAMETERS SHOW BODY SKIN’S INFLUENCE ON APPEARANCE OF AGING
Aging Factors Tested with Novel Anti-aging Body Moisturizer
Skin on the hands, chest and legs can reveal a person’s age, yet 98 percent of female anti-aging beauty care purchases are made to treat facial skin only. Using innovative measurements and technologies, P&G Beauty is developing products that better protect the skin all over the body and fight aging not only on the surface, but actually within the skin’s cells.
To study the effectiveness of anti-aging moisturizing compounds, P&G Beauty researchers established a set of parameters that contribute to aging. By comparing the skin of women ages 20- 30 against ages 50-60, the team quantified five major signals of body skin aging: dullness, dryness, roughness, loss of elasticity and uneven color.
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| PRIMOS images of young (left) vs. mature skin (right) illustrate increase in roughness due to age. |
Jonathan Crowther, Ph.D., leads the research, which shows significant differences between young and old skin in the “high stress” body areas, including above the knees, backs of the hands, outsides of the elbows and décolletage region of the chest. Furthermore, areas most exposed to incidental UV exposure, including the hands and décolletage, were shown to be most prone to aging. The team also took a unique approach to the research, retooling a non-invasive skin cancer detection technology — the SIAscope (Spectrophotometric Intracutaneous Analysis) — to measure collagen and melanin levels.
“Using this technology, we were able to measure in vivo the changes that contribute to skin aging, which helps explain how each is affected by moisturizing products,” Dr. Crowther said.
Dr. Crowther’s team then conducted an eight-week study of a new anti-aging body moisturizer, which contains both antioxidants and UV protection ingredients, designed specifically to address these “high-impact” areas. Results showed that the anti-aging body moisturizer improved the signs of aging when compared to an untreated control, noting a significant reduction in melanin production (the cause of uneven color), and significant improvements in elasticity, dullness, dryness and skin roughness.
According to Dr. Crowther, “these parameters offer valuable insights on how we can better protect against skin damage. Using novel technologies to study products in the lab setting, consumers will begin to see products that offer a noticeable and clinically evident improvement in their skin.”
Myths & Facts
- Coffee beans ‘clear’ your scent memory. MYTH — Perfume counters often provide coffee beans to “clear” your scent memory, but the truth is, the beans do not recalibrate the nose. Rather, they provide a distinctive olfactory reference point, which can actually modify any subsequent scent. A better technique to cleanse your senses is to smell the skin near the crook of your elbow or your clothing, as both are neutral smells you live with daily and are therefore good reference points.
- Perfume smells different on the skin throughout the day. FACT — The change of the scent, or “evolution,” results from materials in the fragrance evaporating, most often due to body heat. Within the fragrance, top notes (citrus, green) typically last for about 20 minutes, heart notes (flowers, spices) last for about 2-3 hours and base notes (musks, woods) can last up to eight hours. P&G’s patented time-release technology is transforming this reality by creating fragrances with top notes that last for hours.
Strangely Beautiful
Temporary dyes contain chemical properties that do not diffuse into the hair or bind to the shaft, so they rinse out easily. Semi-permanent dyes add color molecules to the cuticle layer, but do not bind to the hair protein, so they wash away within a few weeks. Demi-permanent and permanent dyes use ingredients like hydrogen peroxide
Hydrogen peroxide is by far the most frequently used oxidant in oxidative haircolor products. The reactive species formed in situ from hydrogen peroxide and ammonia is the hydroxyl anion, which is responsible for bleaching the existing hair color and forming the new wash resistant color complexes.
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These cross sections of hair have been treated with red hair colorants. The semi-permanent colorants (left) do not penetrate the hair shaft, but permanent colorants penetrate the hair shaft completely (right). |
Lab Notes
Yeast Ferment Filtrate Enhances Moisture in Aging Skin Cells
Hydration is highly influential in the appearance of aging skin, so anti-aging research focuses on understanding the mechanisms of hydration and maintaining moisture within the skin cells.
Using living skin equivalents (cultures), P&G Beauty researchers recently tested the benefits of a topically-applied yeast ferment filtrate (Pitera®, The Procter and Gamble Company). Results demonstrated that application of the extract dramatically increased the expression of hyaluronan (which maintains hydration and elasticity in the skin) when compared to the control treated with just water. Based on these study results, the addition of yeast ferment filtrate to a moisturizer may provide added value in maintaining hydration and elasticity in the skin.
GLOBAL BEAUTY
Despite the reputation for silky, luxurious hair, the overwhelming majority of Japanese women (80%) believe their hair is
dry and damaged and needs intensive conditioning treatment. In fact, Japanese hair is 20% thicker than Caucasian hair and about two-thirds of Japanese women use hair color, making them the most demanding and frequent users of hair conditioners in the world. Half use conditioner at least seven times each week (56%), while 19 percent condition their hair five-to-six times weekly. “P&G Beauty’s Kobe Technical Center works with suppliers and academia in Japan to develop conditioners to meet global consumer needs. This combined with consumer research among the world’s most discerning Japanese consumers has been instrumental in the development of superior conditioners tailored to meet the needs of all the world’s consumers,” says Ananthnarayan Venkateswaran, Associate Director, Hair Care R&D, Kobe Japan.
CLOSE-UP
Take a closer look at the images below to view cross sections of untreated skin vs. skin treated with a niacinamide-containing body moisturizing lotion. In addition to improving hydration of the top layer of the skin, the niacinamide-containing lotion improves the moisture-retaining skin barrier, resulting in better hydration even deep within the dermis.
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As shown in these skin biopsy MRIs, untreated skin (top) contains natural moisture mostly in the epidermis, as indicated by the red color. Skin treated with lotion gains moisture within the dermis layers as well. |
IN THE SPOTLIGHT
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| Dr. Matts joined P&G Beauty in 1988 after receiving a doctorate in biochemistry from the University of Wales. |
P&G Beauty’s goal to deliver the highest quality beauty care products is driven by innovative scientific research conducted by innovative researchers such as Dr. Paul Matts.
As a principal scientist and newly-promoted research fellow for P&G Beauty, Paul Matts, PhD, is one of the leading scientists in the field of skin care research. Dr. Matts has pioneered new theories and practices within the biochemistry and health and beauty industries, including in vivo and in vitro measures of skin, UV research and skin optics, and has published original work in more than 20 scientific publications.
In addition to his research accomplishments, Dr. Matts has received prestigious honors for his dedication to cosmetic science, including two awards from the Society of Cosmetic Chemists: the award for Best Paper at the 2005 scientific meeting and the Hans A Schaefer Award, which recognizes the most innovative paper presented at that meeting. He has also been awarded a fellowship with the Royal Society of the Arts, in London, for an outstanding record of achievement in both intellectual/creative ability and professional conduct. He currently serves on the editorial board of the International Journal of Cosmetic Science and is frequently invited to speak at industry conferences and meetings, in the UK and around the world.
FAST FORWARD
Fighting Wrinkles with Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic acid is a naturally-occurring component of connective tissue that lends strength and flexibility to many parts of the body, including the cartilage, blood vessels and skin. It’s an essential element of the extracellular matrix in the skin, which keeps the skin moist and agile and gives it a healthy, youthful appearance.
Research has shown that as a person ages, the hyaluronic acid content in the skin decreases and supplements are necessary to maintain its beneficial properties. Armed with this information, researchers are now investigating skin care formulations that stimulate the skin’s own production of hyaluronic acid, taking advantage of its ability to attract moisture and reduce the prominence of wrinkles to offer consumers more effective anti-aging products.
DID YOU KNOW?
There are 17,424 employees at P&G Beauty, and one in every ten of them is a scientist.
P&G BEAUTY SCIENCE
P&G Beauty Science has more than 1,800 scientists and technical employees working at 11 global technical centers with an unparalleled commitment to technology development. Company scientific efforts have resulted in over 3,500 active beauty care patents. This allows P&G to develop products uniquely suited for different types of hair and skin, and tailored to different cultures and climates. P&G scientists are constantly seeking new ways of turning inspiration into innovation.
P&G Beauty products help make beauty dreams real and grooming enjoyable every day for millions of women and men worldwide. With more than 100 brands available in nearly 130 countries, P&G Beauty delivered sales of more than $21 billion in fiscal year 2005/06, making it a leading global beauty company. P&G Beauty offers trusted brands with leading technology to meet the full complement of beauty and grooming needs: Pantene®, Olay®, Head & Shoulders®, Max Factor®, Cover Girl®, Always®, Sassoon Professional®, Wellaflex®, Rejoice®, Sebastian Professional®, Herbal Essences®, Koleston®, Clairol Professional®, Nice ’n Easy®, Venus®, Gillette®, SK-II®, Wella Professionals®, Joy® by Jean Patou, Rochas®, Escada®, Hugo Boss®, and Lacoste® fragrances.
Please visit www.pg.com for the latest news and in-depth information about P&G Beauty and its brands.
CONTACT INFORMATION
To talk to a P&G scientist or to learn more about ongoing research at P&G Beauty, contact:
Heather Cunningham P&G Beauty Science 513-626-2606